Taylormade R11 Driver Fct Settings
A few days ago I played a local municipal course that had an R11 for demo with 10.5 degree loft and fujikura regular flex shaft. I jumped at the chance to play a full round with this driver since I have heard good things about it. I didn't try to bother with adjusting the club, I left the settings to neutral and standard loft.Playing with this club was AWESOME. I was ready to buy this driver after only a couple of tee box shots going longer and straighter into the fairway.After playing with this driver I'm curious if there are any differences between the R11 and the Burner 2.0 besides the adjustability features on the R11. If the Burner 2.0 is the same club without being adjustable I'd rather make a purchase on that club instead as I don't see myself taking full advantage of the R11's features. I purchased my R11 two weeks ago and wondered the same thing as you.
What TaylorMade did a somewhat poor job of doing is explaining the relationship between the loft and face angle in the FCT. With the R9, many people assumed that with the 'R' setting they were merely opening up the clubface and that's it. With the R11, many people have assumed that with the '-1*'.
Here's what I learned;1. The 2.0 is an 1-1/12 longer, allowing for added lenght (5-7yds avg) but also more wayward shots.
The R11 is straighter and you will end up using the adjustments to fine tune it once you get used to it.2. The 2.0 is generally for the lower handicap golfer3. I hit both of them a lot before buying. I have enough distance off the tee that distance isn't an issue, so the added consistancy of the R11 was the tipping point for me.4. If price is an issue, the R11s are starting to come down, I got mine new for $329.Hope this helps.
Im a 24 capper, i have the superfast 2.0 9.5degree loft, reg shaftstruggled with it in the beginning but that was my swing and not the club,now my swing is getting better, i was averaging 280+ straight/straight draws last night according to shot tracker on my gps device.i presume the R11 with all its adjustments could make hitting shots easier, but if your adjusting the driver to suite your swing faults are you not defeating the object of getting better?That said, have a swing with both and buy what feels good, no point otherwise lol. Originally Posted by Pope33I purchased my R11 two weeks ago and wondered the same thing as you.
Here's what I learned;1. Fax software download free. The 2.0 is an 1-1/12 longer, allowing for added lenght (5-7yds avg) but also more wayward shots.
The R11 is straighter and you will end up using the adjustments to fine tune it once you get used to it.2. The 2.0 is generally for the lower handicap golfer3. I hit both of them a lot before buying. I have enough distance off the tee that distance isn't an issue, so the added consistancy of the R11 was the tipping point for me.4. If price is an issue, the R11s are starting to come down, I got mine new for $329.Hope this helps.
I have the R11 driver, because to me it feels better and is more consistent, because of the shorter shaft.However what many are telling here is you ajust the club to get rid of a swingfoult is crap.You ajust the club to optimise it. Take the spinrate down or up and the launch angle this has nothing to dowith swingfoults. Of course if your swing has a natural draw or fade you can ajust the club to get a more straight ball flight, but also thisis not have to be a swingfoult. If you play alot of different courses the ajustablity will suite also, playing in the woods you can have a higher ballflight, playing links golf a lower ballflight will be better.If you hit shots off center i think the Burner is a better club, it's more forgiving than the R11.so just try and see what suites you. Yes because adjusting the club to help minimize that 40 yard slice into a nice 10-15yard draw is not compensating for a swing fault?!?Perhaps i made a generalisation,Indeed you are correct, the club can be fine tuned to a players likes/dislikes, making their game more enjoyablebut the reality is alot of the people buying this club will do so for the 'adjustability/cureability' of swing issues, the same as people by draw or fade biased drivers, because its adjustable they just reckon they can set it up to cure there issues. Originally Posted by pbyrne02I purchased the 2.0 Superfast TP stiff shaft a few months ago and love the club and am hitting more fairways. I bought the 2.0 instead of the R11 because I did not want to start adjusting everytime something new crept into my swing.
While I don't like hitting bad shots I want to adjust the bad habits rather than the club.I'm playing the R11TP, and several of the guys I play with use this club (or the S) as well.I haven't ever seen a player adjusting the head to fit the shape of a hole or to combat swing flaws that produce wayward shots. And I don't think that is the intention of an 'adjustable' driver.
Taylormade R11 Driver Adjustments
While the R11 head did allow me to slightly alter the launch angle and shape bias to suit how I'd like to hit the ball, once I found settings that I liked, I've left the wrench at home.That is the real benefit of these heads; allowing a player to set up the head to produce a more precisely defined ball flight. If the higher end course is more difficult than your normal course, then it proved to be a mistake to bring along your duffer pals. If the Duffers are just out for social fun and never work on their games, then you two 80s Twins will be frustrated with them - especially when the course is full.You and the other 80s shooter may have to play one course for challenge, and an easier course for fun with the Duffers.Don't feel you have to 'sneak away' to play the higher end course. I suspect the Duffers will play much less than you two 80s Twins. Unless the Duffers are your bosses or something similar, just play less with the Duffers and more with each other. I've been playing around with my chipping lately, moving away from going into the ball steep with the concept of hitting the ball first and then the ground to impacting the ball with a more neutral/vertical club position, bruising the bottom of the club along the ground just before impacting the ball and giving more margin for error. Essentially a more putting type stroke, resulting in less chunked and bladed shots.I'm in two minds about what the trail arm is meant to do.
Taylormade Driver R11s Setting Chart
Should it be staying straight or staying at a locked angle for the duration of the shot or should the elbow be folding on the back swing like a more fuller shot?Thanks.